Produce first, menu second
The menu changes when the ingredients do. We write it around what the farms and fishermen bring in, not the other way around.
Cupola Plus is a restaurant in Cascais, Portugal, cooking honest seasonal food with produce sourced from local farms and the Atlantic coast. No theatre, no tricks. Just a table worth coming back to.
A slow-cooked fish stew built on whatever has come into Cascais harbour that morning. The base is always the same. Onion, tomato, olive oil, white wine, and a branch of fresh bay from the pot on the terrace steps. But the fish changes daily. Served with corn bread from Padaria Soares in Estoril.
Octopus from the Setubal coast, boiled slowly for 45 minutes before it goes on the grill. Served with smashed potatoes roasted in the oven with olive oil and sea salt, and a dressed green salad. A dish Margarida has been making since the first month the restaurant opened.
Wet rice cooked with smoked linguiça from a producer in Almeirim, torn kale from a small farm in Mafra, and a long chicken stock that simmers every morning from 7am. Deliberately a winter dish but regulars ask for it in July and sometimes we make it anyway.
The menu changes when the ingredients do. We write it around what the farms and fishermen bring in, not the other way around.
Our garden terrace seats 34 and faces west. On a clear July evening you get the kind of light that makes everything taste better.
Our list is 90% Portuguese, with a focus on smaller producers from the Douro, Alentejo, and Setubal peninsula. Most bottles are under 35 euros.
Most visitors to Portugal read the word 'peixe do dia' on a menu and assume it is a marketing phrase. It is not. In a restaurant that is buying from a harbour market each morning, the fish of the day is genuinely different from yesterday's fish, which was different from the day before. Here is how to read what is on offer and why it matters.
Read more →Caldeirada is the dish that confuses tourists and satisfies locals. It looks simple. Fish, potatoes, tomatoes, olive oil. And it is, in the sense that good cooking is always simple underneath the technique. But the decisions made before the pot goes on the heat are where the dish lives or dies.
Read more →Portugal has more native grape varieties than France. Most people who drink wine regularly do not know this, because Portuguese wine spent decades being sold abroad as cheap and cheerful. That has changed. The regions worth knowing now are genuinely interesting, and the prices have not yet caught up with the quality in most of them.
Read more →Margarida Fonseca grew up in Setubal and spent her twenties cooking in Lisbon, starting on the line at a brasserie in Chiado before moving to a hotel restaurant in Sintra as sous-chef. When that restaurant closed in 2015, she spent a year eating her way around Portugal's interior, keeping notes in a blue notebook she still has. In March 2017 she opened Cupola Plus in a former hardware shop in Cascais, doing the renovation herself on weekends. She writes the menu every Tuesday morning, drinks Vinho Verde with fish without apology, and has not owned a television since 2012.